Stator tube

I had the pleasure of re-doing the stator tube wiring this week.  With the pictures and written descriptions from Steve Hanegan and this site:  http://www.zmagnettetech.info/maintenance/electrical/108-the-hornindicator-switch-the-magnettes-chinese-puzzle.html

it wasn't that bad.  I did mess up soldering so I had an unnoticed insulation melt cause a short, so I did have to take it apart and re-do the wires. I had to make the lower tube section from a 20" length of steel brake tube from NAPA.  I cut the flare off one end using my original as a template for total length and for the length and width of the end notch.  This notch aligns with some dimples in the larger diameter tube from the steering wheel, and prevents rotation.  The smaller diameter tube is removed from the lower end of the steering column, this allows the upper tube and steering hub to be pulled into the cabin for removal.  A brass nut fits on the lower end to compress a brass compression washer, this fixes the stator tube in place to prevent rotation as the steering wheel is turned.

 

 

Stator tube and trafficator switch.

 

 

Switch wire connections

Brake line, 5/16" worked into stator tube
lower section.

Brass nut fixing the stator tube on the lower steering column.

Windtone horns in place, not working on the car yet, sound good on the bench though.

 

 

Rear bumper, over riders and English license plate are looking good.



Headliner and dash installation

The headliner is back in and looks pretty good.  I tried to order a new one from Lou Shorten but it has been unavailable, her eyesight has declined to the point that she can't do the sewing anymore.  I elected to reuse the original liner, I wash it to remove as much of its history as I could, along with 40 years of life with a smoker.  It cleaned well but I should have stretched it somehow as it dried, because it did shrink. 

The installation is tedious but not that hard, awkward contorting into the car is the biggest hardship.  If you take the metal cross pieces out of the original, number them from front to back, that will save some time sorting them out later. I recommend using double sided tape to hold the edges in place while you fix the side finishing pieces in place.  Start at the front or back and work in one direction.

My clock is not functioning, a project for another day.

The dash from my car was in nice shape, the veneer on the end pieces was all that needed to be replaced.  I am not a wood worker but I bought some veneer and was able to bond it on and polyurethane finish to get a close match with the original.

The dash installed: